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  • Topic: can't get the deshedding technique right!

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    • June 21, 2015 11:06 PM CDT
    • can't get the deshedding technique right!

      I can't seem to get the long coated deshedding technique right for love nor money. I try to use good quality products. I've started using Best Shot. I try to use the right tools. I use pin brushes, combs, Coat Kings, undercoat rakes, etc... I try to do some brushing in the tub, and use the hi-v to loosen clean wet coat. But it always seems to take WAY too long. It took me 4 hours (throw in 1/2 an hour for a lunch break... dog was under a fan in a kennel) to groom a rough collie today. His owner tries to keep up with his shedding, but his chest was packed with undercoat. He has the patience of a saint, this dog. Even with all the tugging and pulling and everything, he kept giving me kisses and slobbering on my arm (ewwwww). And he's not the only dog that should take a fraction of that time. I just can't seem to get things right, and it frustrates me to bits. Thank goodness for sensible owners!

      I never deshed before the bath. I just don't want to be breathing in the dander and dust of a dirty coat. I also don't want to dull my tools.

      Suggestions? I'm all ears!

    • June 22, 2015 6:52 AM CDT
    • can't get the deshedding technique right!

      I do some brushing in the tub and also use the force of the water pressure to move the undercoat away from the skin.  Then I put the dog up under some fans or dryers, if time permits until the dog is just barely damp.

      The HV does it's best work when the dog is just at it's point of dry.  That's when you really get the coat loosened and blowing.

       

      I don't know if this is the case with you, but I've seen others that use the HV until the dog is damp, then cage dry and try to brush out. Or they give up on the HV because it hasn't started it's magic yet. Let the HV do the work, when the dog is near totally dry, you'll see it happen.  I keep the nozzle close to the skin and angle the air flow so that it is pushing the undercoat away from the skin and to the ends of the hairs to release.

       

      Barb

       

      ____________________________________

      If you don't go after what you want, you'll never have it. If you don't ask, the answer is always no. If you don't step forward, you're always in the same place.

    • September 29, 2015 7:56 AM CDT
    • can't get the deshedding technique right!

      barb, that is good advice, I too have trouble deshedding and do just like the wrong way you described. Next time, I'll let the dog sit and dry some, THEN do the blowing!

    • September 29, 2015 3:15 PM CDT
    • can't get the deshedding technique right!

      On a coat like a Collie, you could let the dog get near completely dry under fans, then use the HV. I promise, if that coat is ready to blow, it will do it when the dog is near dry, not when the dog is wet or even damp.  I do very little brushing on a deshed. Once I've used the HV to get out all the coat, I can usually run a comb through and call him done.

       

      Barb

      ____________________________________

      If you don't go after what you want, you'll never have it. If you don't ask, the answer is always no. If you don't step forward, you're always in the same place.

    • The following users say thanks to Chilly for this useful post:
    • January 15, 2016 7:23 PM CST
    • can't get the deshedding technique right!

      The coat king works well on a wet dog. Watch the tooth width depending on what you are doing. I groomed a couple springers for showing and used the 30 tooth wet on them to remove all the top coat off their back. So easy and so fast.  I have three different coat king combs and they are never far if I have to deshed something.

    • The following users say thanks to angelsun for this useful post:
    • February 7, 2016 4:30 PM CST
    • can't get the deshedding technique right!

      Lots of ways to tackle this, but the coat you are working with will determine everything, as you know.  First off, go to a hospital supply store and buy a box of surgical masks.  They last a long time, and keep the gunk out of your lungs and (mostly) off your face.  (Good to use when grinding nails, too)  Best Shot products are good.  EZ Groom has a couple of shampoos and conditioners that, used synergistically, help IMMENSELY with these coats.  I like to start with their Pomegranate for the first wash, the follow up with Filthy Beast (yes, that is the name).  Often at this stage, I will use the HV while the dog is still soapy (I also use a recirculating system).  It's amazing how much hair will come off, and, pretty much, stay in the tub (and on any nearby surface, like you!).  You can also wet-brush at this stage.  After you clean out the debris and rinse the dog, don't take it out yet.  There is one more step.  Use any good leave-in conditioner (EZ GROOM Ultra-Rich Leave-in is really good).  I either pour it (sparingly.  you get a feel for how much you need) along the back of the neck and down the spine, or use my spray bottle on stream setting to apply it to the coat, concentrating on thick and matted areas.  Put a little water back in the tub and use your pump to work this into the coat.  Do not rinse.  Towel and HV as usual.  Another extremely helpful product is Mojo, by Davis.  It's a serum.  You don't need a lot, just a few drops in any given area.  Working this into damp, matted or thick coat before whatever final drying process can be downright miraculous.  Double coats do tend to shed more at the just-damp stage after a good bath.  AND it works on any coat type.  BTW, EZ Groom also has a shampoo and conditioner that work together well for these coats, that has a quick-dry facet to using it.  EZ Shed and EZ Out are the products.  No, I don't work for them!  After 50 years in this business, and trying just about everything that ever came down the pike, this is one product line that I absolutely love.  And, I have, so far, not had a single dog with an allergic reaction to any of the products.  Hope this was helpful.

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